When my garage door was initially installed, the builder opted to forgo a wired button in favor of a wired button. This means that the primary remote was a 378LM wireless remote. Although it has worked fine, in the last year or so, I noticed that the button was a little bit glitchy. You’d have to hit it a few times to get it to actually open the door.

At first, I’d just assumed that it was the batteries. Opening it up though (which is a little annoying, since the screws are hidden, you have to start at the top of the main button and pry it open), I found that the 3V CR2032 batteries were close to their nominal voltages.

At first I was going to just order an exact replacement, but they don’t seem to sell those anymore and everyone selling the same model was claiming shipping of a few weeks. So then I looked at this compatibility matrix to try to figure out what would be a good replacement.

The G888LM initially seemed like it could be a good choice, until you see that it only has a 2.3 rating on the manufacturer’s website, and a lot of those reviews talk about it spuriously opening their doors in the night. No thanks.

I figured that I could order a replacement and wait a few weeks to see if it was the right one or see if I could just fix the existing board. Pushing the switch on the board, the board LED didn’t consistently light up, but it did flicker a bit.

Checking continuity with a multimeter, the switch doesn’t consistently close. Electrically closing the switch with a screwdriver, the board lit up consistently. Despite these switches theoretically being rated for a lot of clicks, it looks like that was the culprit.

Since I didn’t have another switch on hand, but I also don’t use the AUX button on the remote, that seemed like a good candidate for replacement.

Desoldering SW1

I desoldered SW1 and AUX (SW3) and slapped the SW3 switch where the SW1 switch went, and now the door opens consistently. I spent more time trying to figure out what to buy versus fixing the board, but now it’s happy.